February 6th, 2006


Latest corset is done!

I just finished up a corset for ayalanya. It is a blue, patterned velvet underbust using 14 panels. It has 3/8" sprial boning throughout, except for the busk (and .5mm thick underbusk) and the 1/4" flat steel (.6mm) bones by the grommets. It is underlined with a heavy denim twill and the lining is a fine brushed black cotton twill. Normally I draft to have a 2" gap but it seems her kidneys are a few inches inbound and the bones would have been going too close to them. I added a little bit to the draft and now it sit perfectly closed.

This is the second corset using the new welt seam construction. I am really really happy with the method. The interesting thing about the construction technique is the loss of approx 1/8" per seam due to the folding back. The upside is that if I draft to have it perfectly closed it will have a 2" gap. Making a three layer corset was no more work than two. When I was using the sandwhich method it was a lot more work and actually casued problems. Since each panel is completely finished before adding the next one, any slight variations b/w the outer fashion fabric and the lining can be trimmed up. Since I was using velvet this really helped since velvet will shift when the pile gets compressed under the foot. It's not much but if I was doing the lining and shell seperately before attaching it could be off by a 1/4"

I am now starting on drafting a matching skirt. I'm hoping to try and incorporate some 24" black fringe into the skirt. I have a few yards and I think that it will work without clashing with the existing pattern in the velvet.

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    accomplished accomplished
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